I just love vegetarian food! Sometimes, however, I dislike the term "vegetarian." Too many people, vegetarian or carnivore, see it as a dogma, a religion, something you "must do." I'm not vegetarian because I feel like I should be, but because I enjoy it! It makes me feel good. And when I eat really unique vegetarian dishes like I enjoyed recently at Zemam's Ethiopian Restaurant, I understand why so many cultures around the world rely so heavily on plant-based foods- they are delicious! Now Zemam's does have a couple of dishes made from cow (I believe in calling it like it is) and one from chicken and one from lamb, and I'm sure they're really quite good if you're into that, but I've been a carnivore and, frankly, I find the vegetable dishes much more interesting. And Zemam's does some really tasty things with vegetables.First, however, if you've never eaten Ethiopian food, remember that it's a different culture and requires a different type of etiquette. Something we forget is that the majority of people around the world eat with chopsticks. The next most popular eating utensils are the fingers of the right hand. Forks, knives and spoons come in third. The food at Zemam's is served communally, that is on a platter for all to share. A plate of "injera," a delicious, soft flat bread, is served on the side. Food is taken by tearing off a small piece of injera and using it to pick up a bite of food. Ii is also considered a sign of honor and respect to feed your fellow diners- to an extent. There is an Ethiopian saying that "feeding once causes a rift, twice endears, third time leads to an argument." That is, to feed someone once is to tease them. It would be cruel to not do it again. But to do so a third time would be too much, better to leave them wanting more. It's very simple, actually, to get used to using the bread to eat with. Injera is a soft, spongy, fermented bread, much like a thin sourdough. It is made from wheat, corn and "teff," a hearty grain that is native to Northern Africa. The texture is remarkably light but it holds together well wrapped around a ball of spiced vegetables.
My partner, Donna, and I shared two of Zemam's sample platters (choice of three entrees), so that we could try all five of the restaurants vegetarian dishes- we ordered double on the spinach to make six! Shiro is a moderately spicy dish made from mashed chickpeas, berbere (a variety of hot chile) and other spices. It was good but probably our least favorite. Yemisir Wat is a mildly spicy lentil stew, similar in flavor and texture to dal. Thick, but not at all dry or pasty, it was very quite good. The hottest dish was Yetakelt Wat, a mix of vegetables and potatoes. I like hot foods and enjoyed it very much (how can you go wrong with hot peppers and potatoes in the same dish?) but it was too hot for Donna's taste. We both loved the Kik Wat, thick split peas cooked with onion, garlic and bell peppers. Imagine a thick, spicy split pea soup- yumm! Our favorite, however was the Spinach Wat and we were glad we ordered double of that one. Sort of a curried, creamy spinach served with a dollop of cottage cheese on the side. It was wonderful! The meal was very satisfying (in fact we didn't quite finish all of the injera or the shiro) but we didn't feel at all stuffed or uncomfortable.
The affable owner, Amanuel Gebramarian, has applied for a liquor license but meanwhile, if you like, you may bring your own beer or wine. Snapple and sodas are available. The dining room is small, seating perhaps 20 people, but comfortable with pleasant dˇcor and music. Amanuel told us that he hopes to find a larger place, perhaps Northeast or Northwest of their present location. This is Amanuel's first venture into the restaurant business and he has been at the Broadway location for three years.
Tucson is lucky to have such a fine mix of cultural restaurants and Zemam's is an integral part of that mix. You owe it to yourself to take advantage of what they have to offer- simple, tasty dishes that are enjoyable, fun to eat (especially if you like to share), healthy and satisfying. Give it a try! Enjoy!
Zemam's is located at 2731 E. Broadway, on the North side of the street. Their phone number is 323-9928. Robert Oser is a local chef, teacher and author of "Flavors of the Southwest" and an upcoming vegetarian chili cookbook. He currently works at the Food Conspiracy Co-op.